## Saturday, 26 May 2012

### Tutorial 3: Bustier top Pattern

Measurements needed: shoulder, upper bust ( for boob tubes/ corset tops), bust point ( from the highest point of the shoulder to the nipple), bust, bust apart ( distance between the nipples), under bust, back half length ( the highest point of the back to the deepest point of the back), waist, blouse length and hips.

Calculations Needed:
1. shoulder/2+0.5
2. upper bust length+0.5
3. round upper bust/4+dart allowance+1" (sewing allowance)
4. bust point+0.5
5. bust/4+dart allowance+1"
6. under bust length+0.5
7. Round under bust/4+dart allowance+1"
8. back half length+0.5
9. waist/4+dart allowance+1"
10. blouse length+1.5"
11. hips/4+dart allowance+1"
12. Bust apart/2+0.5
Dart allowance should be 2.5"

PROCEDURE:
•  Measure the neck width A and depth B ( i usually use 3" for both because i like high necks) from the folded tip marked O.
• Join A and B using a french curve for a round neck ( you can use any other neck block you want)
• Measure the shoulder from O and this is labelled point C, take 1" below point C and join to A. This gives the slope of the shoulder.
• From point O, measure the bust point D, back half length E and blouse length F vertically along the folded side of the paper.
• Draw  horizontal straight lines from these points.
• Measure bust along line D, waist along line E and hips along line F and join the points to give the outline of the top.

• Measure 1.5" above the bust line and draw a straight horizontal line

• Join point C1 ( tip of shoulder line) to the horizontal line using a french curve, this will give you the armhole.

• From point O, measure under bust length vertically and draw a horizontal line from that point

• Measure bust  apart on the bust line, under bust line, waist line and hip line.

• Draw a vertical line through the points and measure 0.5" to the left of the line and 1.5" to its right

• Join  armhole to point on the bust line with a curve/cup as shown above

• Cut along the lines